Temperature gauge hook up drawing

If you use the , a good way to secure it to the table top is to dampen the base with a sponge and water before activating the suction clamp. The vise section of both units features a protective plastic cover on the clamps which prevents the wire from being damaged while being held in place. Another invaluable aid is the "helping hand" or "third hand" tool, shown above right.

Next, a good soldering iron with a separate power supply, an adjustable thermostat, and interchangeable tips is an essential luxury. I personally like the Hakko ESD, which is safe for working on electrostatic sensitive devices, too.

Weller makes a nice range of irons, as well. These are often incorporated into multi-meters, ohm meters, and voltage meters. Make sure it has a long set of interchangeable test leads.

An extra set of leads with small clips on the ends will make using the tester a lot easier as you probe the free ends of your wires. Assembling the Interconnects Next, cut the Teflon tubing to size.

For speaker cables, I usually make the jacket 3. If the end of the wire is rough or has a slight burr, you may need to file the ends first to eliminate this. Also, check to see that the end of the insulating jacket is close to round. This not only makes insertion more difficult with similar size tubing and increases the possibility of creating a kink in the wire. A new kid on the block is Eichmann Bullet Plug , also available in solid silver.

I used to thread the wire into the tubing prior to soldering, but now I solder first and thread later. To protect the bare wire from the clips, slip a short piece of scrap tubing over the wire. Using the PanaVise to hold the body of the plug and the helping hand tool to hold the wire, leaves your hands free to solder.

If the insulating material in the XLR softens from the heat of the soldering iron, the pins may move and get out of alignment.

Soldering the pins with the plug inside the panel connector prevents this. Wearing a glove on your wire handling hand, hold the tubing in one hand while pushing 1 or 2 inches of wire in at a time with the other hand.

Small gauge wire is very easy to kink and kinks make smooth insertion difficult. Oversized tubing makes this step a breeze.

If you happen to kink the wire and you may at some point , just withdraw a few inches and smooth over that section with the steel wool. It often helps to lay the tubing out straight, rather than try and feed it from the coil. Just take a medium width blade, needle nose pair of pilers and flatten the ends of the tubing.

This makes insertion easier, especially with smaller barrel plugs. Ideally, the tubing will be snug enough at the opening of the barrel, that it acts as its own strain relief, preventing the wires from coming loose.

This helps to cancel out stray magnetism and holds the tubing in place. When you reach the end, it often helps to wrap the tubes with a short piece of masking tape to hold them together while you prepare the other connector. With the opposite connector in the PanaVise, turn on the continuity tester and clip one lead to the positive pin of the first connector. Touch the second lead to the free ends of the wires. The test tone indicates the positive conductor.

Carefully slipping the jacketed wire into the second plug, solder the positive wire to the positive pin. Do the same with the negative lead and double check again with the tester. Some RCA plugs, like the Cardas model shown, do not come with color-coding. In that case, slip a piece of red heatshrink over the barrels of one cable to indicate the right interconnect. White heatshrink is optional for the other cable. If you can find it, adhesive-lined heatshrink helps to keep everything in place.

It simply makes for a better fit. Assembly is really straight forward. First, secure the two conductors at one end. In the photo, above, they are shown held in place in the Panavise, but you can use any clamp that does not damage or deform the wires.

You can even have a friend hold them for you. I like to leave six-inches mm of parallel conductors at each end. Since you will probably have to bend them, this gives you enough length to slip the conductors onto the binding posts without stressing the wires. At the 6-inch mark from the end of the heatshrink, wrap the conductors with a piece masking tape to hold them together, as shown above. If you wish, you can now add a set of spades.

Depending on your preference, either solder a good quality spade or pin or just use the bare wire itself, which is what I often prefer. As Allen Wright says, "The best connector is no connector. Note the generous twists and color-coded heatshrink on the ends. If you do go for spades, Michael Percy Audio offers a wide selection, as well as silver solder, at reasonable prices.

The main reason to use spades instead of bare wire is durability. As mentioned, silver is relatively soft and if over tightened repeatedly, the bare wire can deform or even break-off. In addition, his research for a US Navy project showed that given a choice, compression fittings are preferable to ones that are soldered on and, due to their relative lack of contact pressure, banana plugs are the worst termination of all. His observations about the sonic anomalies caused by the interface of dissimilar metals is why we use and recommend WBT silver binding posts and RCA sockets, as well as internal silver wire in the signal paths of all audio components, themselves.

Cables terminated with Goertz Audio Large Silver Spades For a decorative touch, you can also add a protective cover of convoluted PVC and nylon mesh in the color of your choice. Seal the ends with a 4" pieces of heatshrink. Oxidation Some correspondents have expressed concern about the silver wire oxidizing inside the Teflon tubing. The culprit is sulfur, which reacts with silver to form the tarnish that silver polish removes.

Yes, there will be air between tubing of any kind and the wire, but to cause serious problems a fresh and ready supply of air is needed. Otherwise sulfidation will cease as soon as the local supply is used up. How much air flow is there likely to be between wire and tubing? Arthur Loesch, well known audio designer and Professor Emeritus of Atmospheric Dynamics at the State University of New York, maintains that fears of tarnish contaminating the sound are completely unfounded.

As he puts it, "tarnish is still silver and it all sounds the same.

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